I read this in the annual special of Australian Surfing Life. I took a photo of the article and haven't had the time to transcribe it. But this morning I woke up with a major cough and fever. So yan... here's the first bit of the article. It's really good. :)

It's Soooo Easy

Really it is. Being a surfer is the easiest thing we'll ever do. As the rest of the world gets more complicated, surfing goes in the opposite direction. It doesn't start that way though does it? It starts out almost  freaking impossible. At first you can't paddle out, you can't paddle in, you can't catch a wave, and you can't stand up. Slowly you manage parts one and two, then part three, then (occasionally) part four and the first humiliation recedes, to be replaced by a new humiliation on a marginally bigger day when parts one or two's suddenly out of the question again. You're like ten years old and you can ride a wave almost to the beach and compared to almost everything else you're doing - watching cartoon on TV, teasing the family pet, tricking your parents into buying you lollies - this riding a wave seems like the biggest bloody achievement of your life so far. The whole surfing equation is baffling, so hard to solve it feels like to do so would be to perform a magical feat on par with or perhaps exceeding anything you've ever seen or read in Harry Potter. You've got a board, yes, but is it good, or isn't it? Sometimes the answer's yes and sometimes no, but WHY?? Why is it different every single day? How come your mate gets more waves than you, ever surf? On big stormy days you stand next to a tree hiding from the wind and wonder about these waves you're seeing, if you could do the same things on 'em that you've thought of doing and tried to do on small days. You're consumed by this, consumed by learning, by being alternately afraid of the ocean and feeling at home in it, by the friends and enemies you're making while doing it, every little step you're taking toward that magical feat of a flawless ride on a flawless wave during flawless surf.